Eco-Logical Environments: Pond Maintenance

By building ponds as miniature ecosystems, they become naturally low maintenance.

EDITOR'S NOTE: The following article is the second in a two-part series on pond construction and maintenance. To view the first part of the series, which appeared in the March 1999 issue of Lawn & Landscape, please click here: On the Water Front.

According to most landscape contractors, building a pond is the easy part.

“I’ve been working with ponds for 10 years,” said Shane Wagner, president, Wisconsin Pondscapes, Jefferson, Wis. “It’s a lot of trial and error, but building them isn’t the problem. The hardest part is making sure they stay clean and remain low maintenance after they are built. We can build customers the most beautiful ponds, but if they are high maintenance, customers don’t want them.”

To understand the basics of pond building and maintenance, a landscape contractor needs to change his mindset, said Greg Wittstock, president, Aquascape Designs, Batavia, Ill.

“Most contractors approach water features by trying to clean water,” he explained. “But they’re not in the business of cleaning water. They’re in the business of building beautiful water features. And the basis of a good water feature is about working with nature instead of against it.”

THE ECOSYSTEM. There are five main principles to pond main-tenance, according to Greg Wittstock. They include: rocks and gravel; plants; fish; pumps and plumbing; and mechanical and biological filters.

All of these elements support the ecosystem of a pond, and by fulfilling all of the elements in an ecosystem, a pond becomes low maintenance, he pointed out.

“If you take just one element out of the ecosystem, the pond becomes harder to keep clean,” he warned. “Sure, water gardens with clean water are easier to sell than dirty ones, but filters aren’t the only necessary part to ensure a clean pond. They are just one of the elements.”

Some contractors think that a pond with too much bacteria will be too dirty so they try to prevent bacteria growth, Wagner said, when, in actuality, the more bacteria that is able to grow and thrive in a pond, the cleaner the water, Wagner advised.

“Waterfalls supply oxygen to the bacteria so that it can live,” he said. “The plants and gravel support bacteria growth that keeps the pond clean. Fish eat the extra algae that grows in the pond. Pumps, plumbing and skimmers help to keep the water moving as well as keep debris out of the pond. It’s a continuous cycle and each factor supports the other in some way, shape or form.”

THE POND FLOOR. Wagner admitted that in the past he used to leave the liner exposed and not line it with gravel and rock for a more natural look.

“We didn’t know how well the liner would stand up to heavy rocks,” he said. “But we realized that rocks are important for building up organic debris and providing extra filtration. Gravel supports bacteria growth and helps to break down algae. It’s like having a little vacuum cleaner at the bottom of your pond.”

“The ideal pond,” added Susan LeBoutillier, landscape manager, Waterloo Gardens & Landscaping, Exton, Pa., “is one where you never see a liner. My priority is to make it look as natural as possible.”

“Gravel hides the wrinkles in the liner and creates an area where bacteria can live,” agreed Gary Wittstock, president, Pond Supplies of America, Yorkville, Ill. “It also makes it easier for people to get in and out of the pond because it’s something of substance they can stand on. Algae-filled liners tend to get real slippery to step on.” Rocks also help during construction to build shelves in the pond so that it’s not just a big bowl-shaped pond in the ground but a natural-looking water feature, Gary Wittstock said.

“Plants root well in gravel,” he advised. “The shelves should go about 6 inches down then 1 to 2 inches across and then down again. The shelves are also safety shelves that act as a stepping stone when the landscape contractor or customer needs to get into the pond.”

Preventative
    Maintenance Checklist

    There are certain steps a landscape contrac-tor should take when building a water feature to ensure it gets a clean start and to act as good preventative maintenance practices:

    Nutrient and Silt Control:
  • Do not fertilize grounds sloping toward the water. Fertilizer may eventually end up in the pond.

  • Dispose of wastes (leaves, grass, fish, entrails, garbage, ashes, etc.) away from the water. All of these materials can serve to increase the nutrient concentrations.

  • Allow a “buffer zone” (strip of grass or natural vegetation) to grow around the shoreline. This will help stabilize banks, reduce erosion, provide an aesthetically pleasing landscape, and retain some nutrients that would otherwise enter the water.
  • Shoreline Management:

  • Plant native vegetation that blends in with the surrounding to encourage a diversity of wildlife.

  • Protect shorelines from erosion and undercutting. Use rock lining, terracing or seawalls.

  • Fence out livestock to prevent them from entering the water.
  • Fish Management:

  • Never randomly stock fish. Introduction of fish should be carefully planned in terms of species, sizes and numbers according to the size, water quality and production potential of the pond.

  • Do not introduce rough fish (carps, suckers, etc.). Never discard unused minnows into the water.

  • Watch for signs of unbalanced fish populations such as overabundant small fish, too many fish of one size class or under-nourished fish.

  • Do not over feed fish if a supplemental feeding program is used. – Applied Biochemists
  • This sidebar is excerpted from How to Identify and Control Water Weeds and Algae, a 5th edition, revised 1998 publication produced by Applied Biochemists, Milwaukee, Wis.

Using the right kind of rocks and gravel is also important.

Greg Wittstock warned against the use of limestone because it changes the pH of the water, effecting the natural low maintenance growth of the ecosystem.

“It’s good to use smooth, granite cobbles for gravel, and use mossy, chunky rock for shelves and other areas of the pond,” Greg Wittstock explained.

“The pond floor should look like pieces of rock where water eroded away the earth,” he continued. “It should look very natural. How you place your rocks is the part of the construction where you can be very creative.”

No two rocks are the same, acknowledged Bill Soeder, owner, Bill Soeder Landscaping, Westlake, Ohio, and it takes time to predict what one rock will do when water hits it compared to another or the backside of that same rock, especially when building the waterfall.

“I’ve gone through five to 10 rocks before finding the perfect waterfall,” Soeder admitted. “Everyone has a different ‘eye’ when building a pond. My employees laugh at me because sometimes I just need one certain-shaped rock to complete the waterfall.”

Because gravel helps to keep the whole system clearer and cleaner, Louis Battista, landscape designer, Waterloo Gardens/Landscaping, Exton, Pa., recommended washing off the gravel and rocks before putting them down in the pond.

“It helps to clear the pond up more quickly after the water is added,” Batista pointed out.

SKIMMING OFF THE TOP. Three years ago, water features were a profitable business for Wagner, but clogged pumps and dirty water hurt profitability.

Then he decided to start using skimmers in his ponds. Skimmers, sometimes called pre-filters, collect the debris that falls into the pond, such as leaves and twigs, before it has a chance to clog the pump, Wagner explained.

“They protect the pump, keep the water flowing and keep debris from sinking to the bottom of the pond,” Gary Wittstock added.

The pump rests in the back of the skimmer vault on the edge of the pond, Wagner explained, and the skimmer automatically skims the top of the water where debris falls, takes it through a filter into the pump and then through plumbing to the biofall, or waterfall, which flows the water, then free of debris, back into the pond. This cycle creates water movement and circulation, which helps oxygen move through the pond, keeping the fish healthy, the bacteria growing and the water from getting too stagnant, Wagner added.

AQUATIC PLANTS. Contractors also sell plant materials to grow in water features. Typically, aquatic plants should cover about 60 percent of the pond’s surface area, Wagner recommended.

“For example, if we build a 10-foot by 10-foot pond, we’d like a majority of that surface area to be covered with lily pads,” he explained.

“Lily pads help create shade, which encourages bacteria,” added Charles Thomas, owner, Lilypons Water Gardens, Buckeystown, Md.

According to Thomas, there are two types of water lilies: hearty and tropical. There isn’t much price difference between the two. Most water lilies on average are $20 each retail, Thomas said.

Hearty water lilies bloom in May through September. Most hearty water lilies, which range in color from white to pink to yellow to red, open at 9 a.m. and close between 3 p.m. and 5 p.m.

Tropical water lilies, on the other hand, are frost tender, produce two to three times as many blossoms as hearty water lilies, come in blues and purples and some varieties are night bloomers, which open in the evening and close by noon the next day, Thomas said.

“Tropical water lilies are more popular with customers because they bloom when most people get home from work and stay open all night,” he explained.

Water lilies will grow in a very heavy topsoil in a pot with 8 to 16 inches of water over them, Thomas informed.

“Water lilies at their deepest will grow 12 to 18 inches tall,” Wagner noted, “but in deeper water, they aren’t as thick and plentiful.”

Aquatic plants will also root in the gravel at the bottom of the pond, added Gary Wittstock.

When it comes to planting, Thomas said the general rule-of-thumb is 1 bunch for every 1 to 2 square feet of surface area, enough to cover 60 to 75 percent of the surface area of the pond.

Water lilies also like still water, Thomas pointed out, recommending that a rock be placed between the waterfall and the plants to ease the rush of water from the fall.

“Over the years I’ve learned that plants are the key to solving the green water problem,” Thomas enthused. “More plants and fewer fish equals clearer water. More fish and fewer plants equals greener water. It’s all about balance.”

GOIN’ FISHIN’. When it comes to adding fish, it’s important to keep the size and type of fish and the size of the water garden in mind, Wagner said. Usually, it’s good to have about 1 inch of fish per 1 square foot of surface area, he stated.

“If you have a 10-foot by 10-foot pond, that’s 100 square feet of surface area,” Wagner explained. “That means that 10 10-inch koi could live in that pond. As long as you don’t overstock fish, they take care of themselves. There’s enough natural food there for them that you don’t even have to feed them; and you shouldn’t let them become dependent on extra feeding – maybe once or twice each week.”

Thomas goes by a different rule: Add not more than 1 inch of gold fish for every 5 to 10 gallons of water. The amount of water should be doubled if koi are being added to the pond, Thomas pointed out, because they have great growth potential.

Fish growth should also be taken into consideration, Wagner continued.

“If you buy 10 3- to 6-inch fish, they’ll grow to about 10 to 12 inches,” Wagner said. “You have to factor that in when adding fish to the pond. If you overstock your pond, there won’t be enough algae there to feed them.”

To incorporate fish, a pond should be at least 2½ feet deep to give them room for growth and so the water doesn’t freeze all the way through, giving the fish a place to live in the winter, LeBoutillier added.

POND PROFITIBILITY. If a contractor expects to build five ponds a year, then it can be a profitable business, Gary Wittstock said.

Water features, according to LeBoutillier, start at $2,000 for a 10-foot by 10-foot basic pond. A popular 11-foot by 16- or 21-foot pond can range from $3,000 to $5,000, similar to the price of a hot tub, noted Greg Wittstock.

Three-fourths of the homeowners Wagner builds ponds for request landscaping, a patio or a deck after the pond is built.

“Incorporating pond building into my company increased my add-on sales,” agreed Soeder. “One-hundred percent of the ponds I build lead to additional services. Usually, we try to sell a three-year contract with pond building. The first year, we build the water feature. The second year, we start with additional landscaping around the pond area and, the third year, we’ll complete the entire project.”

The author is Assistant Editor of Lawn & Landscape magazine.

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