Holding steady

Paver installation takes a lot of time and effort, and all of that can be for naught if you don’t use curbing or edging to keep the pavers in place.

“I prefer to use it everywhere on every single application for pavers,” says Matt Baer, president of Lexington Landscape Management in Palatine, Illinois. “One reason why is it just holds everything in place for three or four years. Instead, if you don’t use the edging, it’ll sag and start to settle.”

Baer says there are different types of edging, so it’s important to know what’s best for your project.

Straight. Baer describes this type of edging as “pretty generic” and says it’s just dropped next to the brick. It’s typically made of plastic.

Metal. Baer says different metal edgings are best, depending on what material the pavers are made of. Steel edging is used on flagstone and bigger rocks because it has a stronger hold.

Flexible. When it comes to jobs on uneven terrain, Baer suggests using flexible edgers that can easily take different shapes and still provide the same containment.

First-timers.

It can seem like an easy task to put edging around a paver installation, but Baer says it’s important to know what you’re doing.

He suggests putting the edging in last instead of first.

“Sometimes you’ll put the edging in first and then put the pavers in and it won’t sit because the pavers are misshaped stones,” he says.

“Always put the edging in last so it supports and holds the brick in instead of doing it before. Use edging that’s flexible to your application.”

Equipment.

Along with having the right product, it’s important to have the right tools for installation as well. Spikes are a must, as they hold the product in place in the ground.

“For bigger rock, it’s usually a 12-inch metal spike,” Baer says. “For smaller brick patios and stuff I use a 10-inch spike.” He says there are other options out there that his crew doesn’t use, so it’s important to research which spike is best for your application.

If you don’t use the edging, it’ll sag and start to settle.” Matt Baer, Lexington Landscape Management

You’ll also need a hammer to pound the spikes into the ground, as well as a hack saw in case the edging needs to be cut to fit.

The work.

Something else to consider is the layout of the edging product itself. Some only have holes every 6 inches for the spikes, while others have them closer or farther apart.

Baer says some are also too sturdy to put a spike in at an angle, which some jobs may require if there’s a rock or ground that can’t handle a spike.

“Use something where you can put a nail in closer, deeper … something a little more flexible to the spikes you put them in,” he says.

“I’ve used just straight edging and you run into a rock or rough terrain or it’s too soft in areas, it’s going to be hard to get a nail in to actually hold the edging in.”

Baer’s crews use edging that’s flexible enough to allow them to drive spikes in every foot or two, depending on how much support is needed.

What it comes down to is considering all of the different factors of the project, comparing it to all the different edging products you have at your disposal and deciding what’s best for your crew and your customers.