Naturalized landscapes combining many types of flower bulbs with perennials, trees and shrubs are not only wonderful to look at, they are a durable, cost-effective method of planting.
Although once considered the "lone wolves" of the horticultural set, flower bulbs, today, are an integral factor in public and commercial landscaping.
Flower bulbs lend themselves to different styles of planting, providing a different ambience in accord with the setting. For instance, Narcissus that look so stately in a formal bed will do just as well and look exactly right planted in a rough grass verge.
Botanical tulip varieties generally are the most successful in naturalized plantings. They per-ennialize best and their short stems are not as affected by stiff winds as the taller, hybrid tulips.
Bulbs used in rural and urban parks and gardens together form a binding and decorative element in wooded public gardens, green belts, grassy and central areas, walking paths, along ponds and lakes, among rose beds and in the plant pots of shopping centers.
BULBS IN CONTAINERS. Tubs, boxes and pots… flower bulbs thrive in containers. Whether portable containers or permanent vessels with a removable inner receptacle, the key advantage to this planting style is mobility.
Containers can soften and humanize the often inhospitable environment around hospitals, homes for the elderly, office buildings and factories.
Containers may be placed where they are needed at any given time, re-arranged as required, and replaced with summer-flowering bulbs once the spring display passes its peak.
Of course, plants and bulbs in pots and tubs are more vulnerable to frost damage than those in the ground. So, protect them with a generous layer of mulch, such as pine branches, rotting leaves or peat dust.
If winter conditions in your area are particularly severe:
- Shelter the containers through the winter, putting them in place once the temperature becomes more moderate, or
- Grow the potted bulbs in a greenhouse and place them out when spring comes.
- Choose a container with drainage holes in the bottom.
- Add a drainage layer of fired clay pebbles or crockery.
- For mixed plantings, use a normal potting compost.
To produce satisfying results in the spring:
Plant bulbs among perennial plants and small shrubs, or install a quiet creeper at the feet of a single bulb type. Botanical varieties – e.g. T. greigii, T. fosteriana and T. kaufman-niana – with their shorter stems do best in containers.
BULBS IN LAWNS. Early-flowering "specialty" bulbs may be naturalized in grass where they are easily managed. Many have flowered and are fading by the time the first serious cutting of the season is necessary. This particularly applies to the early crocus and squills, such as Scilla tubergeniana.
If bulbs are naturalized sparingly in grass, they will produce a semblance of a wild flower meadow. One type of bulb that prospers in damp soil is Fritillaria meleagris, the Snake’s head fritillary.
Little bulbs that do well in naturalized settings include the grape hyacinths – Muscari armeniacum, M. latifolium, etc. – which spread freely from seed, and Anemone blanda ‘White Splendour.’
The most highly recommended grass mixture is one in which fescues are dominant. They are the most practical for this purpose because their root systems do not interfere significantly with the bulbs’ development.
Maintenance of such a combination can be simplified with the following steps:
In addition to naturalizing in grass, flower bulbs also may be scattered among trees and shrubs where the soil is bare. Scilla siberica, Chionodoxa and Puschkinia libanotica all are excellent in this role.
Further, there are flower bulbs that will perennialize under all light conditions. Some that prefer full sun are Alliums and Narcissi.
TYPES TO CHOOSE. Many spring-flowering bulbs will perennialize, i.e. bloom for many years, making them suitable for naturalized plantings. To make perennialized plantings as successful as possible, plant the bulbs twice as deep as usual.
As noted above, the ones most commonly used for this purpose undoubtedly are Narcissus, i.e. daffodils, and many of the "specialty" bulbs, e.g. Crocus, Eranthis, etc.
Massed drifts of daffodils create a lovely sight and of those particularly recommended for perennializing are many from the Cyclamineus group, such as ‘February Gold,’ ‘Jack Snipe,’ ‘Jenny,’ ‘Jumblie,’ ‘Little Witch,’ ‘Peeping Tom,’ ‘Tête-à-Tête’ and ‘Jetfire.’
To the surprise of many people, some tulips, such as the Fosteriana group, are well suited to this purpose. In addition, those from the Kaufmanniana group are useful in these settings because they bloom early.
From among the Tulipa greigii group, cultivars ‘Oriental Beauty’ and ‘Red Riding Hood’ are good choices for plantings that are intended to sustain their appearance for many years with only minimal maintenance. Also, the Greigiis foliage is more decorative than the others, i.e. mottled or striped.
The botanical tulips also perform well in naturalized settings. Some of the best are Tulipa eichleri, T. kolpakowskiana, T. praestans ‘Fusilier,’ T. pulchella, T. sylvestris, T. tarda, T. turkestanica and T. urumiensis.
The little Tulipa sylvestris, for example, looks elegant and natural – the very antithesis of the ornamental hybrids – such as the Triumph varieties. These tulips are very hardy. In addition, they suffer little wind damage thanks to their short stems.
PLANTING AMONG TREES. Falling autumn leaves not only mark the end of summer, they also enrich the earth as they decay. In addition, the soil in a tree border generally is slightly moist and light conditions on the ground vary.
Keep these factors in mind when choosing plants for such an area. Also, remember that perennials, in particular, must be strong enough to compete with the tree roots.
Here are some other points to consider when planting among trees:
- Tulips and narcissus are best located where they get sufficient light in late spring. The flower bulbs Allium ursinum, Anemone nemorosa, Convallaria (Lily-of-the-valley), Corydalis solida, Endymion and Erythronium all provide excellent results under trees and among shrubs.
- Great ground cover choices for a shady border include: Omphalodes verna, Lamiastrum galeobdolon ‘Floretinum’ and Epimedium x perralchicum ‘Frohnleiten.’ There are many perennials to accompany these combinations; e.g. Campanula trachelium, Alchemilla mollis and Bergenia ‘Morgenröte.’
- Perennials, such as Aquilegia, Hosta, Rodgersia and Astilbe, will push out weeds while providing a nice summer display.
COMBINATIONS FOR BENEFITS. When mixing a variety of plant materials, there are a few keys to consider. For instance, to increase the period in which a planting of trees, shrubs and perennials is attractive, plant a selection of bulbs that bloom sequentially all in one location.
This is called a "layered" planting, in which the latest-blooming bulbs are placed on the bottom. These bulbs are covered with soil and a second layer of early-blooming bulbs is added, such as Crocus, Galanthus (Snowdrops), Chionodoxa (Glory-of-the-snow) and Scilla (Squills). The little bulbs bloom first in the spring, followed by the larger, later-blooming types that were planted first.
Sequential blooming can also be achieved with different types of plants, such as an opening cushion of Geranium (Cranesbill) with the white-flowering Narcissus triandus ‘Thalia.’
Alternatively, combine two plants that flower simultaneously, such as Helleborus orientalis (Christmas rose) and Puschkinia libanotica (striped squill).
Bring about a subtle contrast of shades of green by interplanting Polygonatum multiflorum (Solomon’s seal) with Hosta and a few ferns in a shady corner. An added bonus: the growing foliage of the perennials camouflages the dying leaves of the bulbs.
The author is president of CJS Communications, Vancouver, B.C.
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