Movin' On

Relocation is never easy.

Regardless of the distance involved, pulling up roots and planting them anew presents a host of stresses – including prepping, packing and planning for the future.

The same is true when it comes to trees, especially those of significant size. And the fact that different tree species mature at varying rates adds to the challenge. Uprooting a leafy giant and moving it to a new home requires close attention to details to get the job done right.

MOVE IT OR LOSE IT. Homeowners and property managers name a variety of motives for relocating trees. However, the most common reason for moving a tree on an established residential property is a building addition, says Bruce Fraedrich, vice president of research, Bartlett Tree Experts, Lebanon, N.J. "With so much tearing down and rebuilding these days, people try to work around existing trees or sometimes move a big tree of historic value in an attempt to salvage a unique specimen," he says.

Construction projects can force property owners to make a decision between three options – keep the tree where it is and forget the building project, lose the tree and build on the site, or move the tree to a safe spot and move forward with construction.

Often the third option is most attractive. "A homeowner may be adding on to a house and a large tree is in line with where the new driveway would be," illustrates Rodney Bigham, director of sales, Rocky Fork Co., New Albany, Ohio. "Instead of just chopping it up and grinding it up, the homeowner decides to transplant the tree to the backyard."

The decision to uproot and replant a tree may be driven by emotion as well, Fraedrich notes. Sometimes homeowners opt for a transplant when sentimental value is attached to a tree.

Another motivation for a tree transplant is the desire for a mature structure right away, explains Tim Johnson, consultant, Artistic Arborist, Phoenix, Ariz, and president, American Society of Consulting Arborists. "Customers may be building a house and want to put in a screen to give them privacy from the neighbors," he observes. "They don’t want to wait for a small tree to grow up, so they have a more mature one installed."

Property developers also take an interest in large trees, flagging and harvesting those with at least a 10-inch caliper for future landscaping applications, Bigham shares. For appearance purposes, a developer may have a collection of large trees moved or brought in to increase aesthetic appeal on the site and, thus, drive interest from potential purchasers.

CONSIDER RISKS. Once a property owner decides to investigate the possibility of a tree transplant, the help of a tree care specialist is enlisted. Before scheduling a moving day and discussing relocation expenses, the professional must carefully make assessments to determine if the move should be attempted.

Specifically, professionals should check for insect problems and indications of disease, Bigham advises. "We want to make sure the tree is a good-looking specimen that can absorb the shock of a move."

Internal decay also can present problems. To discern interior issues, look for exterior symptoms such as loose bark and cracks in the trunk, Fraedrich says.

Johnson also advises an inspection of leaf color and density for irregularities to ensure a healthy start to the transplanting procedure. Inconsistent growth increments also can signal trouble. To discern a tree’s growth patterns, look at the elongation between annual buds on branches. If growth in those elongation sections has slowed in the past two years, the tree likely has some internal issues that could prevent a healthy life on a new site.

A tree’s overall structure also is a factor to consider, Johnson observes. Older trees rot and often have poor branching structure, which can make for less-than-ideal results following a transplant. Contractors can assess a tree’s structure visually and also with the help of hammers, drills and sonic machines – checking for hollowness and internal structural decay.

Professionals also should determine whether a location is appropriate by assessing the condition of the site where the tree will be transplanted, Bigham states. Consider soil grade and possible interference from utilities.

Terrain should be a significant consideration, as well. For instance, a tree living on a flat surface is likely to have struggles if moved to a sloped spot. Adding topsoil can help alleviate the anticipated stress, but sometimes even extensive amendments are not enough to put the tree at ease.

Bigham does not recommend moving trees from sunny to shady spots either. "Whenever you change a tree’s climate, it’s a big gamble," he says. "You want to keep its environment and climate the same – or at least similar."

The reason: temperatures can vary by 10 degrees or more when comparing shaded and sunlit spots. And although some tree species will adapt to the variation, others will not survive. "Ideally, you want to replant a tree in similar growing conditions," Fraedrich says. "Trees will adapt, but that sudden move from a shady to sunny area could result in some bark scalding, for example. In general, if a tree is growing in full sun, it will not perform as well in a heavily shaded location."

Thus, ensuring consistency from one location to another is top priority. "The success of a tree transplant is dependent on the tree reproducing roots very rapidly," Fraedrich says. "And that root growth is largely dependent on the quality of the soil receiving the tree in its new location."

A check of infiltration and percolation rates – or the pace at which moisture absorbs into the ground – will help contractors distinguish the new soil’s compatibility to the original site, Johnson says. He also recommends sending soil samples to a lab for further fertility testing and biological health assessments.

Site evaluations should include considerations for equipment as well. Be sure there are no overhead or underground limitations that would prevent work in the specific area. And don’t forget to call local utility providers to check the location of buried conduits before digging, Fraedrich says.

Detailed logistics of the move, such as anticipated rootball size and necessary equipment to move that size tree, also should be included in the preparation phase, Johnson adds.

Moving substantial trees typically requires the use of a backhoe for site excavation, a crane with cable rigging for removal and placement on a vehicle, and a flatbed truck or dolly for transportation, Johnson outlines. Smaller trees, with a 10-inch caliper or less, do not necessitate the help of such large equipment. Instead, contractors can move them with tree spades – to properly remove and secure the root system – and backhoes – to backfill the holes left behind.

MOVING DAY. When the anticipated day arrives for a large tree to say goodbye to its lifelong surroundings, planning is crucial.

Specifically, the tree’s new home should be primed and ready for the tree’s arrival, Fraedrich explains. "You want the tree out of the ground for as little time as possible," he says. "Preparing the receiving hole and amending the soil there first will prevent the tree from sitting around like a fish out of water while you prepare the new spot."

Site preparation often entails tilling and amending the soil in an effort to match the tree’s new environment to its former one.

Next, excavate the spot where the tree will be installed. Careful measurement helps professionals figure the precise size of the hole needed to house the tree.

After the hole is prepped, a skilled operator uses a tree spade to extract the tree and its rootball. The time required to move a large tree varies based on terrain, weather, size and location. However, Bigham notes that trees moved within a property generally can be removed and reinstalled in 30 minutes or so.

Once the tree has been lifted out of the ground, the tree spade – mounted on the rear of a truck – folds back on top of the truck and tilts backward.

When a tree is too large to be moved with a tree spade, operators must dig the rootball and package it by conventional means. Often the rootball is shaped by hand and then covered with burlap for transport via crane, bulldozer or flatbed truck.

Removing the tree spade from the hole after planting leaves "void areas" – 2-inch gaps where the spades slide in and out around the circumference, Bigham says. To ensure that air, wind and other elements don’t enter those areas and damage the root system, contractors should use soil to fill the gaps.

Once the hole is sufficiently filled, mulching and watering are vital, Bigham says. Contractors may need to stake extremely large trees for added stability as well.

TRANSPLANT TRAUMAS. Tree specialists bring a variety of perspectives and approaches to the task of tree relocation. However, regardless of the chosen method, there are a handful of mistakes to avoid.

Underspading a tree is one frequent error, according to Bigham. "If you underspade a tree, that means you’re trying to dig a tree that’s too large for your equipment. The general rule of thumb says you need 10 inches of spade for 1 inch of caliper."

So Rocky Fork’s 80-inch tree spade can move trees up to 8 inches in caliper, and a 66- inch spade could move trees up to 6½ inches. "If you try to move a tree that’s too big for your spade, you’re taking off too much of that root system," Bigham advises.

Centering the root system within the spade also is key, Bigham notes. "If you have it shifted to the right, you’re chopping off the whole left side of the rootball," he says.

An inadequate assessment of the tree or relocation spot also can cause problems for the tree in the end, Johnson says. Another concern is the tendency of some contractors to treat every tree the same, he notes.

But perhaps the biggest mistake Johnson has seen is planting trees too deep. "Probably 95 percent of them are planted too deep," Johnson says. "When that happens, it creates problems with the moisture-oxygen ratio. Basically, the tree doesn’t absorb enough moisture or take in enough oxygen."

Planting depth is the most important factor of relocation, Johnson says. "A tree should be planted at the same depth where it was taken from the ground – at the root flair."

A tree’s root flair is the area where the roots start spreading out from the trunk and often is covered by the dirt ball in which the tree was packaged. Once the root flair is found, the planting hole should be just deep enough to keep the flair above ground level.

WELCOME TO THE NEIGHBORHOOD. Once a tree has been successfully relocated, the work is far from over. In fact, the follow-up care of a transplanted tree is vital to survival – and the customer accepts responsibility for its welfare. That means paying close attention to the tree’s increased vulnerability and taking necessary steps to make the new arrival feel comfortable.

Consistent maintenance and irrigation can help ensure the tree’s longevity. Most significantly, perpetual irrigation will help the tree embrace its new home and strengthen its roots, Fraedrich recognizes.

Johnson recommends property owners turn the watering and tree maintenance responsibilities over to professionals for the best results. Otherwise, educating customers about follow-up care is a must.

"The first year after the installation is very critical," Fraedrich says. "The tree is going to be more sensitive to dry soils and be prone to dry out much more quickly than the roots of an established tree. Fertilizing six months after transplanting also can improve a tree’s health."

The author is assistant editor-Internet of Lawn & Landscape magazine and can be reached at aanderson@lawnandlandscape.com.